The Taj Mahal and Agra Fort

We made it out at sunrise to see the Taj Mahal; the most extravagant monument ever built for love. The Taj was built by Emperor Shah Jahan as a memorial to his wife, who died giving birth to their 14th child in 1631. Her death left the Emperor so heartbroken that his hair is said to have turned grey overnight. Construction of the Taj was started that same year and was completed in 1653. It’s absolutely beautiful.

Afterward, we had some breakfast and took a rickshaw to the Baby Taj and then to the Agra Fort. The ride between places was almost more interesting than the sites themselves. We traveled over a small bridge which was packed with taxis, rickshaws, motorbikes, men pushing vegetable carts and bulls carrying goods. Traffic was held up at one point by an elephant just hanging out in the street.

We are taking a side trip to Fatehpur Sikri tomorrow, about 40km south of Agra. It is mainly a ghost town; it used to be used to be the Mughal Empire’s capital between 1571 and 1585, during the reign of Akbar.

Naggar to Chandigarh to Agra

Our days in Naggar were a bit boring. The town is extremely small and since it is off-season, only a few places were open (one small store and two restaurants). I think we may have been the only tourists there. We played many, many games of cards and dominos, ordered room service and watched terrible b-movies (most channels are in Hindi with only about 3 channels in English). Matt enjoyed Old Monk Rum and hot water; a traditional liquor from North India and only 100 Rs per bottle or 2.50 US, until our hot water heater broke :). Then Matt enjoyed just Old Monk Rum.

We were watching a Hindi news channel and noticed that they were showing a map of India with bombs flashing, one being in Varanasi; our last destination in India. We were concerned but had no access to English newspapers so we were going to have to wait until we could get access to the internet.
After three nights in Naggar we hired a driver take us to Chandigarh, about a 9 hour drive south. Unfortunately, the hotel we booked didn’t retain our reservation and they were completely booked. The hotel manager was nice enough to call around and find us another hotel though.
We left Chandigarh at 6:30am the next morning for the train station and after 13 hours arrived in Agra. The train ride was long, we were in a birth with a Sikh and his wife, a man and his wife from south India and a man from Chandigarh. They were all very nice but the man from Chandigarh kept lifting his leg and passing gas (towards me). He could have at least aimed at the aisle… There were so many sites along the way, women working in fields, small towns with tea stalls, boys playing cricket, children climbing trees and beautiful natural scenery. The only sad thing to see was the amount of garbage everywhere, there wasn’t one site not covered.

We arrived in Agra and hired a taxi to take us to our hotel. We’re staying at the “Shanti Lodge” and let me tell you, its shanty alright. We changed rooms though and now we have a large room with a great view of the Taj Mahal. We explored the Taj Ganj area of Agra today; winding colorful streets through markets with so much going on all around you. It’s completely overwhelming, different from the peace and quiet of the mountains. People are constantly asking if we need a rickshaw, something to eat, look in their shops, etc. We’re walking down the street constantly saying no. I wish we had t-shirts that said “No, I don’t need a rickshaw” on the front and “No, I don’t want to buy anything” on the back.

Anyway, we are back at the hotel relaxing now and getting some chai, we’re planning on going to the Taj Mahal at sunrise tomorrow which should be great for pictures. We’ll be here until December 2nd, then taking a train on to Varanasi. We finally read on CNN that three bombs detonated simultaneously in three holy cities; one being Varanasi where 9 people were killed. The court and government buildings were the targets so we aren’t too concerned about safety when we go there.

Happy Thanksgiving from Naggar

We walked around Manali the last couple of days trying to figure out our travel plans. We visited the train booking office and found out that the only train (with availability) going to Agra would be leaving on November 26 from Chandigarh (about 200km away). This was much earlier than we originally planned, so we looked into other travel options (the cost of a driver, a flight from the closer town of Shimla, or a train to Delhi with a driver/bus to Agra). The upcoming train seemed to be the easiest and cheapest route so we booked the rail ticket that morning, and also booked our ongoing rail ticket to Varanasi for December 2. It’s hard to believe our travels in India are almost finished, with only a few weeks left before we leave for Thailand.

Since we only had a few days left in Himanchal Pradesh, we decided to leave Vashisht that morning. We went back to our hotel, packed our bags, took a rickshaw to Manali and then booked a driver to take us to Naggar that afternoon. Surprisingly, it all worked out well considering we didn’t have a hotel in Naggar and had no idea where we were going. We found a nice hotel right next door to Naggar castle and we spent the rest of the afternoon walking around this small town and exploring the castle. We’ll be spending a few nights here, then having a driver take us to Chandigarh the night before our train departs for Agra and the Taj Mahal.

Goodbye McLeod Ganj, Hello Manali

After almost three weeks in McLeod Ganj, it was time to say goodbye. Our last week was fun, we met some friends from Ireland and had some late nights drinking with Yonten. Alex and Blonit had planned to leave McLeod on Monday, November 12th but every day would come and go and they were still here, and every night we were celebrating their next day departure. We didn’t believe they would ever leave until we actually saw them to their car and it pulled away almost a week later.

We went to the TCV on Saturday to bring the kids their winter coats and sneakers. Everything we picked out fit with the exception of one pair of shoes which can be exchanged. They all seemed really happy.

Our last day, we went for breakfast to Oogo’s one last time. We’re going to miss the food there!! It was sad to say goodbye to Yonten and we tried to convince him to come to Manali with us. He may join us in a few days. Yonten gave us two Tibetan shawls and each a white scarf (it is traditional for Tibetan’s to give white scarves for good luck) and saw us to our car. To our surprise we had the same driver as we had on the way to Dharamsala, the one we had the accident with. The drive to Manali was 9 hours with the road winding around mountains. It was a nauseating ride, the road was at times only big enough for one car and winding around shear cliffs, added to it were the fumes from the cars and Vinot, our driver, constantly spitting out the window. At one point, we had to maneuver around over 100 goats and sheep in the road. I’m thankful we decided not to take the bus…
Our guest house is nice, and the views from the balcony are amazing. We are staying in a small town called Vashisht, just outside of Manali, with hot springs and treks nearby. Today we had a relaxing day but tomorrow morning we plan on going to the communal baths and then taking a hike up to a waterfall nearby. The next day we plan on taking a longer, 13 km trek in the mountains. This town is really quaint and since it is off-season, there aren’t many travelers. Manali, (alt. 1,950 m or 6,398 ft) is in the Beas River valley and is an important hill station in the Himalayan mountains of Himachal Pradesh, India. It's in a valley which is surrounded by mountain peaks of 20,000 feet. The population in Manali is less than 30,000.

Update from McLeod Ganj

We've been having a great time here in McLeod Ganj. Originally, we had planned to stay one week at most but after 10 days, we're still not ready to leave. We've met some friends, both travelers and locals (this is an easy town to sink into). We went out the other night to a restaurant called Carpe Diem where live music is played and there is an open mic night. There were two Nepalese guys playing songs from Coldplay, Pink Floyd, etc. There is a monastery across the street and I can't tell you how funny it was to see monks dancing in the window to “We don't need no education; We don't need no thought control”. :)
We've been going to the HEC School in the evenings to speak English with local Tibetan refugees. We've met such interesting people, all with unique stories and backgrounds. One woman spoke about her trek to McLeod Ganj, a group of 42 which split into two groups when half of them refused to leave a sick woman behind because the weather was turning bad. The group that went ahead all made it to Katmandu safely, while those who stayed didn't fair too well. She explained that the snow was coming in so quickly that their footsteps would disappear immediately and unfortunately 2 children fell in the snow and were completely covered, they were never able to find them... By the time they arrived in Nepal, 6 others had perished along the way and many more had lost legs/fingers due to extreme temperatures. We continue to be truly amazed by the stories of the people who live here.

I've started my Reiki course and we've both started classes on meditation. It's been a great experience so far. We've met a friend Etienne who runs our favorite restaurant, Oogo's. The last couple of nights we've been drinking beers with him and playing card games. Etienne is also a Tibetan refugee; he escaped from Tibet because he would have been killed by the Chinese government for putting up political messages. He told us he would go out late at night to put up “Free Tibet" posters and Tibetan flags. He said he plans on going back when Tibet is free; explaining that if he went back now he would surely be killed.

Etienne is a good man, today he took us to the TCV (Tibetan Children's Village), which houses about 4,000 children (most who don't have any living family members). The children here are so incredibly sweet; we brought them candy and had lunch with them. Matt and Etienne played some hoops as well. During the two month holiday, 8 of the children from the TCV (six of them pictured here) stay with Etienne. Their faces light up when they see him, he bought them all lunch and then gave each child 50 rupees before leaving for books and pens. We are going shopping with him on Monday to buy some winter clothes for them. If anyone would like to donate to the TCV, information is here.

On Friday we attended a teaching from His Holiness, the Dalai Lama. This was truly an experience of a lifetime. He gave a 3 hour teaching on “The Three Principal Paths”, during which bread and butter tea (milk, melted butter and salt) was served by the monks. The best part was when he walked through the monastery within only a few feet from us, clasped his hands and smiled at us directly (we both had goose bumps and teary eyes). We never thought we would ever have the chance to see such a great man, and we were lucky enough to also receive a teaching from him.
The Hindi festival, Diwali, was celebrated the same evening with candles and butter lamps being lit (to symbolize prosperity) and kids setting off fireworks in the streets (to ward off evil spirits). We lit some off ourselves and had a great evening at Oogo's.
Tonight we will be going out with Etienne and a couple from Ireland to Excite (a local dance club down the street from our guest house). We are posting some pictures from our day at the TCV and with our friend Etienne.

Last but not least, some recipes for Donna's Uncle Bill for Momo's :)

His Holiness, the Dalai Lama

Everyone was busy preparing the day the Dalai Lama came home. The streets were painted, banners were hung and the streets were lined with Tibetan flags. We waited all day as no one knew the exact time he was coming. The moment was brief, but worth the wait, he was smiling as always and had his hands clasped. There were about 20 cars in his brigade and they took him straight to his home at the monastery.



He is speaking on November 9th and 10th and we’ve already secured our passes to see him. We’ve been meeting with Nagwon, the monk who has been teaching us Buddhist philosophy and enjoying our time in McLeod Ganj. We will be volunteering to teach English and starting a meditation course soon. Matthew is planning on volunteering time at a local animal shelter while I plan on starting a Reiki course.

We’ve found our favorite restaurants (Tibetan food is so good!!!) and met some friends in town. There is a sweet Tibetan woman that sits on the corner almost every day selling homemade momos, steamed dumplings stuffed with potatoes or spinach, with chilly sauce (5 momos for 10 rupees or 25 cents).

We caught a documentary last night “Escape from Tibet”, which gives you a good idea of what Tibetan refugees have to go through to get to this area of India to escape religious and political persecution. Most of the people here have made the long and dangerous trek for over 30 days through the Himalayas (very close to Mt. Everest) with out maps, supplies, or guides. They trek with their day-to-day clothes on in layers and all of their possessions strapped to their backs. Thousands of people do not make it. In fact we spoke with Nagwon today about his trek and he mentioned that a 26 year old woman died during his journey. Many people lose fingers and toes due to frostbite or become snow blind just to gain their freedom and even once they arrive, they could still be sent back to China. Many people have made the trek more than once.

We took a walk to Bhagsu today, a small town about 2km away with a waterfall. It was a nice walk with beautiful views over McLeod Ganj and the countryside.

Tomorrow we will be changing hotels, moving to the center of town. We are only a short walk as it is but the people from our hotel are constantly pressuring us to book a travel package to Kashmir and we’re a bit tired of dealing with it. The place we found is half the price (about $7/night) and much nicer.

First Day in McLeod Ganj

We started off today to see the monastery, where His Holiness, the Dalai Lama lives. He has lived in McLeod Ganj since going into exile from Tibet in 1959 (after Chinese occupation and subsequent torture and killing of the Tibetan people). With many followers, he made the 25 day trek through the Himalayas to Nepal, then on to India where they gave him political asylum. Since then, thousands of Tibetans have followed in his footsteps to escape torture and imprisonment by China for their beliefs.
The monastery is a beautiful place, prayer flags leading up to it and inside different areas of worship. In the courtyard, the monks were doing debate (in which they end each point with a slap of their hand and a stomp of their feet).

We wondered around the complex for some time. A monk approached us at one point and asked where we were from, etc. He invited us to his home, within the monastery, and made us some tea. He had a simple two-room apt, books in the side of one room and a mattress on the floor. He talked about his life, where he was from in Tibet and showed pictures of his family and teachings. He’s been living in McLeod Ganj for the last 10 years, also making the long 25 day trek through the mountains to Nepal at the young age of 18. He explained that it was the only way, since he had no passport (and would not receive one from China), the only option was the long trek to Nepal. He hasn’t seen his family in over 10 years but said he plans on going back in 6 years (after his teachings are finished) to see his family and homeland again. Sadly, he explained that he will be put in prison for 2 years when he returns to Tibet but it will be worth it to see his family again.

He told us that the Dalai Lama would be coming back to the monastery on Saturday and teaching on the 9th so we plan on staying in McLeod Ganj at least until then. He gave us a book to read and asked if we would like to come back tomorrow at 5:30, he would have his translator then and could teach us some basic Buddhist philosophy; even offering to make us a Tibetan meal. We agreed of course and said our goodbyes. After leaving the monastery we took a long walk around the complex, a beautiful path with prayer wheels and prayer flags, rocks with prayers inscribed and monks doing their daily kora.

Outside of the temple there are markets and restaurants, you have a general feeling of being in Tibet rather than India and the people are so warm, welcoming and always smiling. This seems an easy place to sink into, we have plans to take a meditation course, some yoga classes and do some volunteer work such as teaching English and basic computer skills. The long days journey for us get here now seems so menial compared to what most have gone through to reach this special place.