Thursday, March 6, 2008

Siem Reap, Cambodia


We arrived in Siem Reap in the early afternoon, stepped off the plane onto the tarmac and completed a short visa process to enter the country. We pulled money out of the ATM and it was strange to see US dollars again. The official currency in Cambodia is Riel but since so much US currency was put into the country after the war, it’s used for everything. Siem Reap is a beautiful place with friendly people and a great atmosphere. Although Matt was here last year, this is my first time in Cambodia and I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. So far this place has surpassed all expectations and I find myself not wanting to leave.

Since we arrived early, we had some time to walk around the local markets, such a colorful place with fruits, vegetables, meats, clothes, jewelry, crafts, etc. We are staying in the heart of the old market at Molly Malone’s, which has a great restaurant and an Irish pub downstairs. We’ve met some fascinating people sitting down at the pub with incredible stories. We met an American doctor who has been providing care for people in Cambodia for next to nothing in the rural villages, trying to setup an ambitious telemedicine project to provide better care. Cambodia has a tragic and recent history, in 1969 it was bombed and invaded by US and Vietnamese forces during the Vietnam conflict during which time there were between 4-6,000,000 landmines laid, most of which are only found today when someone steps on one. So far only 90 sq km of the country has been cleared leaving over 3,000 sq km left so it’s important not to stray even a few steps from a path or main road. You see so many people with no limbs and it breaks your heart, especially when you see the children. One of the things immediately noticed when coming here is the almost non-existence of anyone over the age of 50. During the Pol Pot regime, one-fifth of the population was tortured to death or executed (mainly those who were educated, spoke other languages, or even wore glasses). Between 1975 and 1979 over 2 million out of 11 million Cambodians died as a direct result of the Khmer Rouge and almost everyone you meet will have suffered directly or indirectly as a result. Today over 40% of the population is under the age of 15 which is a depressing statistic considering their education system is extremely poor. Cambodians are a happy and proud culture though who live for today rather than tomorrow, understandably considering their horrifying past.

Cambodia’s pride and joy are the Angkor Temples, built between the 9th and 13th centuries, there are 1000’s of temples scattered in the country-side. We spent 3 days touring the Angkor Temples, which are truly awe-inspiring. We visited many temples over the course of a few days but our favorites were Ta Prohm, Bayon and of course, Angkor Wat. Many of the Angkor Temples have long standing preservation projects but officials wanted to leave at least one temple in Angkor as it was, as an example of the “natural state”. They chose Ta Prohm and it is one of the most beautiful sites in Angkor. The temple contains a maze of narrow corridors and crumbling stonework, which is literally being pulled down to the ground by massive trees growing overtop and endless roots coiling around the stones. The Bayon has 216 massive faces and elaborate carvings of over 11,000 figures inside depicting life in 12th century Cambodia. Angkor Wat is simply amazing; no other words to describe it. It is the largest religious building in the world and it’s spectacular.

While seeing the Angkor Temples was an amazing experience, we are both a little “temped out” and relaxing back at our guesthouse. Next will be the floating forest and villages.

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